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I wanted to share a little bit. I'm going to have to add pictures in later, as I'm having a hard time getting the links (the album is in Serina's name). If you want to, you can click any picture in this blog and it'll take you to our Picasa album so you can see them all. First here's a quick breakdown of our trip:
We were picked up at hotel at 5am. Cesar came in and got us. Hilariously, our bus driver was wearing a Michael Vick (7) Falcons jersey. The bus ride, especially a descent near the end is very pretty but nothing compared to the hike itself. We sat in the second seat back on the right side. In front of us were the New Zealanders (last to get picked up) and to the left the two guides, Oscar and Cesar.
There is a short stopover in Ollantaytambo for breakfast and to buy equipment. The guides typically suggest buying some coca leaves (for energy) and walking sticks (if you didn't bring poles).
We started at kilometer 82. This is around 2800m above see level. We hiked the trail down the Urabamba River. Around lunchtime, we passed some ruins and began heading up the river. There was a lunch stop at what looks like a potential campground right before heading up river. At this point we were at the lowest part of the trip until crossing the 3 passes further in. Somewhere between 2650 and 2750m.
The hike up river is where Serina started getting sick. She really was a trooper through the entire trip. Everything being green and next to a fast moving river did a lot to help motivate, but I think this first hard day was mentally the toughest for her. The guides refer to day 1 as the "easy day", and getting sick and falling behind everyone else in the group (by about 15 minutes) made things really tough for her. She was sick on day 2 and 3 as well, but the mental challenge was not nearly as high. It was also raining heavily near the end (rain was intermittent the entire trip).
We arrived in camp shortly after everyone else, and had about 30 minutes before dinner was served. In a testament to fast-drying hiking clothing, all my clothes were completely dry by about halfway through dinner. I had a Marmot rain coat I used most of the trip, but even though the rain was probably the heaviest, I went without it most of day one due to the heat. The fast-drying stuff was a Ogio shirt and REI convertible pants.
We ended the night at Wayllabamba (3000m) the last village on the trail. The surrounding mountains and river were really beautiful. This was probably my second favorite campsite of the three we used.
Highlights from Peru (Serina's List 21-30)
Sorry for the delay. We've been playing catch up at home and still haven't finished but I figured I'd toss up my finale so Chris can mosey in and toss in his 2 cents.
Lima was actually the shortest leg of our trip so I'm not certain if I can squeeze 10 highlights out of it but I'll try!
Serina's Peruvian List of 30 (continued)
21-30 Lima
21. Anyone who has been to our home knows I love, love, love color. Being in Lima brought a lot of art into one small perimeter of space so I was in heaven. I landed some incredible swag. When you step outside onto the square there are a ton of street vendors peddling wares. It such a fun feeling strolling through and looking at everyone's goods.
There was a stand of very fun and colorful watercolors. I liked the simplicity in the design and the man was just way too nice. We wound up getting a handful of his pictures. Most went with Aunt Deb and this one came home with me - love those alpacas!
I happened through some of the bazaars with my aunt while Chris grabbed a cold one at our hostel's pub and we came upon this artist tucked away in a small closet sized space. He was from Cuzco and was selling water colors. I flipped through his sepia themed art and fell in love instantly! I snagged these two immediately! There is just something about the dancing piece that makes me so incredibly light (my aunt says it's the "air" in the design) and well, I couldn't pass up the llamas. They each have such character (which unfortunately due to my horrible photography skills you can just BARELY make out). Their faces have this cute mischievousness to them and their ears just make me so happy!
I continued to thumb through more of his sepia pieces and saw a lot of couples. Thinking of my swill swiggin' honey back at the hostel I wanted to find THE perfect couple painting that represented us. No luck. I spoke to the artist, whose English he apologized for but was impeccable and he said he'd have a piece done especially for me! This astounded me. I watched him take his paper out and grab his brush that he wielded as heavy as a feather and I watched it dance as gleefully across the page as the men above. I made one plea in the beginning that the man be at least a head taller than the woman and he asked me our favorite colors. I was in even more shock when he told me how much it would be after he completed - only asking $1. There may be a simplicity to the painting that I'm sure he's trained his hand a thousand times to complete but the effort and the meaning to me is priceless.
We spent so much time in his little corner of Lima and I feel all the richer for having done so. His name is Ramani and I managed to snag a card with his email address but I believe my aunt stashed it away in her luggage.
One of the other nifty little items I managed to snag was a small box containing tiny figures making masks to celebrate Carnavales. I've been looking for a thoughtful and fun companion to the Dia de los Meurtos wedding couple my friend Lisa bestowed upon me at my "bridal suite" she hosted in 2006. I have this two-cubby perfect shelf (coincidentally a wedding gift from Lisa as well) and the betrothed are housed in one of them. I'm stoked this little piece will be joining them.
22. I enjoyed refining my skills of haggling. I hadn't really done such since I bought a Faux-lex in New York in 2005 (bargained to $20 from $65) so I was admittedly shy about the whole thing. I was quite surprised at how easy it became. I happened upon it unknowingly after paying $1 for two finger puppets from a child in Cusco - his going rate was 5 puppets for s/10 or $3.50. I had to get my mind conditioned for the exchange rate. Mos tof the time I window shopped but shop keepers are keen to this. They notice what you linger on and make an offer. If you still pass it up (feigning disinterest) they'll stand back for a minute and watch you as you peruse. In Aguas Calientes, which was noted to be pricier due to the tourist attraction it is, we wandered into a shop where Chris spotted a bottle opener. I happened across a wood carving that looked like a mask (which I had been fiending to find) , picked it up, asked how much and put it back down. We wandered through the store longer and the man in the store would ask me "Lady, how much do you pay?". I honestly wanted to think about it a little longer so I wouldn't offer anything in return. The original price was s/60 but I walked out paying s/30.
I never intentionally would run the price down so low that the seller would be offended or take it for a loss but it is an interesting way to do business and surely was a culture shock returning to the States and going to "no-haggle" stores. The thrill, I think, is in the negotiation!
The mask above is the representation of the duality of the Inca realms: the condor (top) represents Hanan Pacha - the upper world/heavens, the puma (bottom) represents Kay Pacha - the outer earth/where humans dwell, and the snake represents Uku Pacha - the inner earth/underworld. Inca religion and mythology is a fascinating study.
23. One of the main things Chris and I knew we'd have to do is hop a taxi around town. We'd read a lot about how you'd need to agree on your price before hopping in the cab because otherwise you could be in for a big surprise. We also read you'd need to negotiate where you are going as some drivers turn down fares on account of whether they'll be able to pick another up at drop off. What we were amazingly surprised with were the rates. We'd drive across Lima for $3 and although it is customary that drivers don't get tipped we'd add gratuity anyway. On top of being speedy, braving crazy traffic conditions and being amazingly accommodating and resourceful (found out about all the nifty places in town) they were the most friendly folks we encountered. The gasoline was higher than it had ever gotten here so it makes you wonder when you shell out $30 to drive 3 miles and are obligated to tip regardless of cordiality of your driver in Atlanta what the Peruvian drivers really take home at the end of the day for the effort put in.
24. When we arrived in Lima I felt like we had stepped into areas of Los Angeles. It's a big city and like most big cities, you've seen one, you've seen them all. Advertisement billboards, traffic, people everywhere. What is the most interesting thing to see is the traffic control consisting primarily of mimes and other folks in costumes.
25. Never underestimate the power of taking stickers of your brother's tattoo parlor with you on trips. I exchanged one for a trip to the restroom of another tattoo parlor in Lima. It was quite the scary bathroom, straight out of a horror film with the dark corridor leading to the doors, fluorescent lights and sounds of people on the other side of the wall but man was it a lifesaver!
26. Parque del Amor was such a fun little side trip while we were in Lima. It is overlooking the beach where you can watch the surfers. The beautiful statue of the lovers embracing and kissing "El Beso" is larger than life and I found out, my husband is, too! We followed the lead of the colossal caressers but all seriousness was lost when the Mister started to zerbert my sweet, tender advances. He's a good and humorous man, he is.
27. Chris, Debra and I all wound up headed to the Museo Rafael Larco Herrera. There were absolutely breath taking pieces in this museum and as you strolled through the collection you could see the evolution of styles. Each exhibit explained in full detail. The storage that is open to the public absolutely floored me. Multiple rooms of floor to ceiling pottery findings of epic amounts. There isn't enough time in one day to take it all in. From metal works and ornamentals:
To weavings and carvings. This place was great! It also helped there was a friendly and chipper bird at the entrance singing for us as we entered. I've found I am a fan of the Chavín ceramics. Chris found out what his favorite exhibit was but I'll let him expound if he so desires.
28. New Years Eve confirmed that we are old farts now. We spent the day walking around Lima's Miraflores district and parks only to realize by about 10pm we were completely bushed. I managed to buy a few yellow flower leis before the clock struck midnight. Chris and I wound up falling asleep to the traffic outside our window but woke up when we heard everyone celebrating the new year to wish each other a happy one!
29. There was a lot to see in the city and unfortunately the pictures were lighter taken here than in Cuzco or on the Trail but here are a couple of my favorites:
30. All in all this trip was such a "Once in a Lifetime"treat and has really got us thinking of our travels and possible futures. I got to use the nifty little Smilebox application to toss together a digital scrapbook - which was pretty fun. I've posted it below for you to enjoy!
Lima was actually the shortest leg of our trip so I'm not certain if I can squeeze 10 highlights out of it but I'll try!
Serina's Peruvian List of 30 (continued)
21-30 Lima
21. Anyone who has been to our home knows I love, love, love color. Being in Lima brought a lot of art into one small perimeter of space so I was in heaven. I landed some incredible swag. When you step outside onto the square there are a ton of street vendors peddling wares. It such a fun feeling strolling through and looking at everyone's goods.
There was a stand of very fun and colorful watercolors. I liked the simplicity in the design and the man was just way too nice. We wound up getting a handful of his pictures. Most went with Aunt Deb and this one came home with me - love those alpacas!
 |
| From Peru Swag |
I happened through some of the bazaars with my aunt while Chris grabbed a cold one at our hostel's pub and we came upon this artist tucked away in a small closet sized space. He was from Cuzco and was selling water colors. I flipped through his sepia themed art and fell in love instantly! I snagged these two immediately! There is just something about the dancing piece that makes me so incredibly light (my aunt says it's the "air" in the design) and well, I couldn't pass up the llamas. They each have such character (which unfortunately due to my horrible photography skills you can just BARELY make out). Their faces have this cute mischievousness to them and their ears just make me so happy!
 |
| From Peru Swag |
I continued to thumb through more of his sepia pieces and saw a lot of couples. Thinking of my swill swiggin' honey back at the hostel I wanted to find THE perfect couple painting that represented us. No luck. I spoke to the artist, whose English he apologized for but was impeccable and he said he'd have a piece done especially for me! This astounded me. I watched him take his paper out and grab his brush that he wielded as heavy as a feather and I watched it dance as gleefully across the page as the men above. I made one plea in the beginning that the man be at least a head taller than the woman and he asked me our favorite colors. I was in even more shock when he told me how much it would be after he completed - only asking $1. There may be a simplicity to the painting that I'm sure he's trained his hand a thousand times to complete but the effort and the meaning to me is priceless.
 |
| From Peru Swag |
We spent so much time in his little corner of Lima and I feel all the richer for having done so. His name is Ramani and I managed to snag a card with his email address but I believe my aunt stashed it away in her luggage.
One of the other nifty little items I managed to snag was a small box containing tiny figures making masks to celebrate Carnavales. I've been looking for a thoughtful and fun companion to the Dia de los Meurtos wedding couple my friend Lisa bestowed upon me at my "bridal suite" she hosted in 2006. I have this two-cubby perfect shelf (coincidentally a wedding gift from Lisa as well) and the betrothed are housed in one of them. I'm stoked this little piece will be joining them.
 |
| From Peru Swag |
22. I enjoyed refining my skills of haggling. I hadn't really done such since I bought a Faux-lex in New York in 2005 (bargained to $20 from $65) so I was admittedly shy about the whole thing. I was quite surprised at how easy it became. I happened upon it unknowingly after paying $1 for two finger puppets from a child in Cusco - his going rate was 5 puppets for s/10 or $3.50. I had to get my mind conditioned for the exchange rate. Mos tof the time I window shopped but shop keepers are keen to this. They notice what you linger on and make an offer. If you still pass it up (feigning disinterest) they'll stand back for a minute and watch you as you peruse. In Aguas Calientes, which was noted to be pricier due to the tourist attraction it is, we wandered into a shop where Chris spotted a bottle opener. I happened across a wood carving that looked like a mask (which I had been fiending to find) , picked it up, asked how much and put it back down. We wandered through the store longer and the man in the store would ask me "Lady, how much do you pay?". I honestly wanted to think about it a little longer so I wouldn't offer anything in return. The original price was s/60 but I walked out paying s/30.
 |
| From Peru Swag |
I never intentionally would run the price down so low that the seller would be offended or take it for a loss but it is an interesting way to do business and surely was a culture shock returning to the States and going to "no-haggle" stores. The thrill, I think, is in the negotiation!
The mask above is the representation of the duality of the Inca realms: the condor (top) represents Hanan Pacha - the upper world/heavens, the puma (bottom) represents Kay Pacha - the outer earth/where humans dwell, and the snake represents Uku Pacha - the inner earth/underworld. Inca religion and mythology is a fascinating study.
23. One of the main things Chris and I knew we'd have to do is hop a taxi around town. We'd read a lot about how you'd need to agree on your price before hopping in the cab because otherwise you could be in for a big surprise. We also read you'd need to negotiate where you are going as some drivers turn down fares on account of whether they'll be able to pick another up at drop off. What we were amazingly surprised with were the rates. We'd drive across Lima for $3 and although it is customary that drivers don't get tipped we'd add gratuity anyway. On top of being speedy, braving crazy traffic conditions and being amazingly accommodating and resourceful (found out about all the nifty places in town) they were the most friendly folks we encountered. The gasoline was higher than it had ever gotten here so it makes you wonder when you shell out $30 to drive 3 miles and are obligated to tip regardless of cordiality of your driver in Atlanta what the Peruvian drivers really take home at the end of the day for the effort put in.
24. When we arrived in Lima I felt like we had stepped into areas of Los Angeles. It's a big city and like most big cities, you've seen one, you've seen them all. Advertisement billboards, traffic, people everywhere. What is the most interesting thing to see is the traffic control consisting primarily of mimes and other folks in costumes.
 |
| From Busy Lima |
25. Never underestimate the power of taking stickers of your brother's tattoo parlor with you on trips. I exchanged one for a trip to the restroom of another tattoo parlor in Lima. It was quite the scary bathroom, straight out of a horror film with the dark corridor leading to the doors, fluorescent lights and sounds of people on the other side of the wall but man was it a lifesaver!
26. Parque del Amor was such a fun little side trip while we were in Lima. It is overlooking the beach where you can watch the surfers. The beautiful statue of the lovers embracing and kissing "El Beso" is larger than life and I found out, my husband is, too! We followed the lead of the colossal caressers but all seriousness was lost when the Mister started to zerbert my sweet, tender advances. He's a good and humorous man, he is.
 |
| From Busy Lima |
27. Chris, Debra and I all wound up headed to the Museo Rafael Larco Herrera. There were absolutely breath taking pieces in this museum and as you strolled through the collection you could see the evolution of styles. Each exhibit explained in full detail. The storage that is open to the public absolutely floored me. Multiple rooms of floor to ceiling pottery findings of epic amounts. There isn't enough time in one day to take it all in. From metal works and ornamentals:
 |
| From Busy Lima |
To weavings and carvings. This place was great! It also helped there was a friendly and chipper bird at the entrance singing for us as we entered. I've found I am a fan of the Chavín ceramics. Chris found out what his favorite exhibit was but I'll let him expound if he so desires.
28. New Years Eve confirmed that we are old farts now. We spent the day walking around Lima's Miraflores district and parks only to realize by about 10pm we were completely bushed. I managed to buy a few yellow flower leis before the clock struck midnight. Chris and I wound up falling asleep to the traffic outside our window but woke up when we heard everyone celebrating the new year to wish each other a happy one!
29. There was a lot to see in the city and unfortunately the pictures were lighter taken here than in Cuzco or on the Trail but here are a couple of my favorites:
 |
| From Busy Lima |
 |
| From Busy Lima |
 |
| From Busy Lima |
 |
| From Busy Lima |
 |
| From Busy Lima |
30. All in all this trip was such a "Once in a Lifetime"treat and has really got us thinking of our travels and possible futures. I got to use the nifty little Smilebox application to toss together a digital scrapbook - which was pretty fun. I've posted it below for you to enjoy!
 |
 |
| Make a Smilebox scrapbook |
Highlights from Peru (Serina's List 11-20)
It's occurred to me that our trip was pretty much segmented in three: Q'osco, Inca Trail and Lima. What luck my numbered list is divisible by three! Coincidence, maybe?
Serina's Peruvian List of 30 (continued)
11-20 Inca Trail
11. The cosmos must have known that ever since a small child I've been hung up on suspension bridges and heights. Big time! Probably irrational but I'm still fearful of both like you would not believe. So what comes on TV the day before we hit the Inca Trail but Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom - en Espanol! We didn't catch it from the beginning but we surely caught the part close to the end where Indy is surrounded on both sides of a rope bridge swaying high above a river of blood thirsty crocs and makes the decision to cut away the ropes and let the bridge fall free. This is fine and dandy but I know what is to come the next day. We kick off the four day hike with a trip over the Urubamba River on what else but a suspension bridge. Now I know it wasn't elevated high above a canyon and it certainly was far more sound than what the good Dr. Jones swung by but the wobbliness of it made me happy to zip across it in record time. This wasn't the only encounter on bridges of shaky nature but I sucked it up like a big girl and faced my fear.
12. Our guides were absolutely wonderful.
Oscar, often stopping to examine and explain the local flora, was our main guide. We found out he had done the Inca Trail over 400 times. He would stop to talk about the medicinal properties of certain flowers and at one point popped off little round insects (cochineal) that had nestled in what looked to be ash on the side of a prickly pear cactus pad. Oscar then demonstrated that these insects are harvested for the dark crimson dye by basically popping it between his fingers. He told us (and I Wikipedia'd it!) that this dye was used to make the British red coat uniforms.
Cesar (you can call him "See-zar" but he prefers the correct pronunciation of "Say-zar") was our second guide with a gift for storytelling. He would touch on the history and lore of the Inca's as we traipsed from ruin to ruin, often stopping to draw diagrams in the dirt. They took turns shifting between the front and back of the group making sure to give everyone their attention and talk about points of interest on the trek.
13. Warmiwanuska is officially the highest altitude I've been to on foot to date. I made it! 4215 meters / 13 828 feet above sea level and I made it! We started off the second day hiking from Wayllabamba which sits at about 3000 meters / 9840 feet up to that pass. It was tough but SO rewarding and I can honestly say that your body won't let you down. You just have to stay in the mindset that you are going to complete that ascent and you'll do it. It was one of the most physically challenging feats I've accomplished so far and it's as if it gives me some kind of rush to want to do more. Chris and Cesar really helped me out with motivational words and encouragement. What a great cheering squad! Once we started getting closer to the top the clouds rolled in and let loose a bit of drizzle so that by the time we reached "Dead Woman's Pass" there wasn't much visibility to really take in the terrain we covered. Still, that didn't stop us from feeling accomplished!
14. I underestimated the super powers of Claire's "lollies". She had offered some earlier on in the trip and I shirked off the sugary sweets but it wasn't until the fourth day at the Sun Gate (one hour before we made it to our end target Machu Picchu) I finally broke down and had a couple. They certainly did add some pep to my step and therefore I realized, albeit 3 days late, the error of my ways.
Claire was one part of the New Zealand newlyweds in our group. I know that spending 4 days with 13 (30 if you include the porters) strangers hiking ancient roads of Peru may not sound like an ideal honeymoon for most but I was thrilled when half of our group consisted of newlyweds sharing the love (even if Chris and mine was delayed two years). We couldn't have asked for a finer hiking family.
15. "Monkey Steps" are no joke. When your guide tells you it's best to just climb the steps on all fours he's not just trying to pull one over on you for a Kodak moment. One of the things I kept joking on the trail is that if Chris had my feet and I had his legs we'd be perfectly suited for Inca Steps.
16. I have a profound respect and love for camping now. On one hand you have nature surrounding you with all of the sounds and scenery to go with it. On the other you zip yourself up in a cozy little hut to give you a remote comfort of home and a barrier from any unwanted pests. All in all, it's you in the vastness of nature where you feel the thrill of the adventure and expedition then the insignificance of feeling so small in comparison to the beauty surrounding you. It's a lot for your senses to drink in but it's absolutely worth ever minute. Our gear could not have been more faithful and comfy. My tent mate could not have been more wonderful and cuddly. It makes it even more worth it when the view from your tent is mountains and valleys and clouds and trees and ruins as far as you can see!
16. Chris and I had some mixed feelings about getting to Machu Picchu. We were thrilled we made it after the trekking we had accomplished but kind of saddened that some of the most interesting parts of the trip were behind us. We perched at the Sun Gate to see the sunrise but was welcomed with cloud cover obstructing the view. We descended for about an hour to the top of the ruins where we were informed that about 50% of Machu Picchu still has yet to be excavated. As we continued on we found that there were far more people in the ruins that we had grown accustomed to while on our trek. In the course of our hike we had seen about 200 other hikers and 300 employees of tour groups as they limit the daily amount of folks on the Inca Trail to 500. Once you get to Machu Picchu you start to mingle in with the day trippers who come up by bus and train. It was great to see many people from all over the world sharing the experience of seeing on of the new wonders of the world. We were told there is a possibility of UNESCO shutting down access to Machu Picchu in around 20 years due to the impact the foot traffic has on the site and that the two mountains nearby, Wayna Picchu and (now I can't remember the name of the smaller one) are moving apart 1cm/year. This has been causing some of the ruins to separate.
The ruins were just phenomenal to peruse as the structure and methods used are quite baffling. We wove past other tour groups and in and out of various sites including the Temple of the Sun
Sometimes we had to wait for more tour groups to maneuver from room to room. One place that was funny to visit we the king's bathroom. A narrow passageway lets itself into a tiny closet sized room. We were able to fit about 5 of us in it.
I highly recommend at least one trip in your lifetime to Machu Picchu. There are so many details to see and most of the time I tried to keep a happy balance of filming them to actually seeing them without looking through a viewfinder.
17. Llama, llama, llama. Here a llama. There a llama. Everywhere a llama, llama! I think this is the start of an unhealthy obsession.
18. After spending our time at Machu Picchu you are given a bus ticket and time frame of when you need to meet your group at Aguas Calientes. I have got to say the most terrifying experience for me was the bus ride down. It's my fear of heights kicking in again and the fact I've watched too many adventure flicks and have an overactive imagination. You motor down a series of switchbacks that hug the side of a mountain. We alternated from mountain wall view to steep drop view. Poor Chris' arm, is all I have to say.
19. Aguas Calientes is a nifty little town. It is solely a tourist town feeding from the Machu Picchu experience so you have to watch the prices but I gotta tell you the food I had there was FANTASTIC! If you ever in town you definitely need to swing by El Ayllu. They have various avocado salads there that are to die for! Their pizza ain't half bad either. What adds to the ambiance is that most of the shops are right on the railroad tracks so it's not too odd to have a scene like this from your dining table.
The Hiram Bingham is the most expensive train, running at about $700 a trip.
Dogs still roam free around Aguas Calientes but they certainly are of a more friendly and approachable variety. This little fella almost got a one way ticket back to Georgia with us. He snuggled up under my feet at the restaurant and went right to sleep.
20. My aunt asked me what was the one thing I was glad I brought on the trek that I would have been absolutely lost without. My answer is the fine specimen below.
His excitement, determination, sensitivity, encouragement, patience and love helped me from start to finish. Between alternating switchback patterns to pace, gently reminding me to hydrate and later becoming the pack mule for my water bottle and various other gear, being my lookout when I had to duck into the bushes and rubbing my back on the third day when I got sick every 15 steps he deserves a medal. Never once did he lose his gentle demeanor. If he hadn't been on the trail with me I would have taken up the Quechuan farmer on the second day who offered me a cheat to the top riding his horse. Either that or I'd have been headed back to Ollantaytambo to catch the train to Machu Picchu.
Serina's Peruvian List of 30 (continued)
11-20 Inca Trail
11. The cosmos must have known that ever since a small child I've been hung up on suspension bridges and heights. Big time! Probably irrational but I'm still fearful of both like you would not believe. So what comes on TV the day before we hit the Inca Trail but Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom - en Espanol! We didn't catch it from the beginning but we surely caught the part close to the end where Indy is surrounded on both sides of a rope bridge swaying high above a river of blood thirsty crocs and makes the decision to cut away the ropes and let the bridge fall free. This is fine and dandy but I know what is to come the next day. We kick off the four day hike with a trip over the Urubamba River on what else but a suspension bridge. Now I know it wasn't elevated high above a canyon and it certainly was far more sound than what the good Dr. Jones swung by but the wobbliness of it made me happy to zip across it in record time. This wasn't the only encounter on bridges of shaky nature but I sucked it up like a big girl and faced my fear.
 |
| From Inca Trail |
12. Our guides were absolutely wonderful.
 |
| From Inca Trail |
 |
| From Inca Trail |
13. Warmiwanuska is officially the highest altitude I've been to on foot to date. I made it! 4215 meters / 13 828 feet above sea level and I made it! We started off the second day hiking from Wayllabamba which sits at about 3000 meters / 9840 feet up to that pass. It was tough but SO rewarding and I can honestly say that your body won't let you down. You just have to stay in the mindset that you are going to complete that ascent and you'll do it. It was one of the most physically challenging feats I've accomplished so far and it's as if it gives me some kind of rush to want to do more. Chris and Cesar really helped me out with motivational words and encouragement. What a great cheering squad! Once we started getting closer to the top the clouds rolled in and let loose a bit of drizzle so that by the time we reached "Dead Woman's Pass" there wasn't much visibility to really take in the terrain we covered. Still, that didn't stop us from feeling accomplished!
 |
| From Inca Trail |
14. I underestimated the super powers of Claire's "lollies". She had offered some earlier on in the trip and I shirked off the sugary sweets but it wasn't until the fourth day at the Sun Gate (one hour before we made it to our end target Machu Picchu) I finally broke down and had a couple. They certainly did add some pep to my step and therefore I realized, albeit 3 days late, the error of my ways.
 |
| From Inca Trail |
Claire was one part of the New Zealand newlyweds in our group. I know that spending 4 days with 13 (30 if you include the porters) strangers hiking ancient roads of Peru may not sound like an ideal honeymoon for most but I was thrilled when half of our group consisted of newlyweds sharing the love (even if Chris and mine was delayed two years). We couldn't have asked for a finer hiking family.
15. "Monkey Steps" are no joke. When your guide tells you it's best to just climb the steps on all fours he's not just trying to pull one over on you for a Kodak moment. One of the things I kept joking on the trail is that if Chris had my feet and I had his legs we'd be perfectly suited for Inca Steps.
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| From Inca Trail |
16. I have a profound respect and love for camping now. On one hand you have nature surrounding you with all of the sounds and scenery to go with it. On the other you zip yourself up in a cozy little hut to give you a remote comfort of home and a barrier from any unwanted pests. All in all, it's you in the vastness of nature where you feel the thrill of the adventure and expedition then the insignificance of feeling so small in comparison to the beauty surrounding you. It's a lot for your senses to drink in but it's absolutely worth ever minute. Our gear could not have been more faithful and comfy. My tent mate could not have been more wonderful and cuddly. It makes it even more worth it when the view from your tent is mountains and valleys and clouds and trees and ruins as far as you can see!
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| From Inca Trail |
16. Chris and I had some mixed feelings about getting to Machu Picchu. We were thrilled we made it after the trekking we had accomplished but kind of saddened that some of the most interesting parts of the trip were behind us. We perched at the Sun Gate to see the sunrise but was welcomed with cloud cover obstructing the view. We descended for about an hour to the top of the ruins where we were informed that about 50% of Machu Picchu still has yet to be excavated. As we continued on we found that there were far more people in the ruins that we had grown accustomed to while on our trek. In the course of our hike we had seen about 200 other hikers and 300 employees of tour groups as they limit the daily amount of folks on the Inca Trail to 500. Once you get to Machu Picchu you start to mingle in with the day trippers who come up by bus and train. It was great to see many people from all over the world sharing the experience of seeing on of the new wonders of the world. We were told there is a possibility of UNESCO shutting down access to Machu Picchu in around 20 years due to the impact the foot traffic has on the site and that the two mountains nearby, Wayna Picchu and (now I can't remember the name of the smaller one) are moving apart 1cm/year. This has been causing some of the ruins to separate.
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| From Inca Trail |
The ruins were just phenomenal to peruse as the structure and methods used are quite baffling. We wove past other tour groups and in and out of various sites including the Temple of the Sun
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| From Inca Trail |
Sometimes we had to wait for more tour groups to maneuver from room to room. One place that was funny to visit we the king's bathroom. A narrow passageway lets itself into a tiny closet sized room. We were able to fit about 5 of us in it.
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| From Inca Trail |
I highly recommend at least one trip in your lifetime to Machu Picchu. There are so many details to see and most of the time I tried to keep a happy balance of filming them to actually seeing them without looking through a viewfinder.
17. Llama, llama, llama. Here a llama. There a llama. Everywhere a llama, llama! I think this is the start of an unhealthy obsession.
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| From Inca Trail |
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| From Inca Trail |
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| From Inca Trail |
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| From Inca Trail |
18. After spending our time at Machu Picchu you are given a bus ticket and time frame of when you need to meet your group at Aguas Calientes. I have got to say the most terrifying experience for me was the bus ride down. It's my fear of heights kicking in again and the fact I've watched too many adventure flicks and have an overactive imagination. You motor down a series of switchbacks that hug the side of a mountain. We alternated from mountain wall view to steep drop view. Poor Chris' arm, is all I have to say.
19. Aguas Calientes is a nifty little town. It is solely a tourist town feeding from the Machu Picchu experience so you have to watch the prices but I gotta tell you the food I had there was FANTASTIC! If you ever in town you definitely need to swing by El Ayllu. They have various avocado salads there that are to die for! Their pizza ain't half bad either. What adds to the ambiance is that most of the shops are right on the railroad tracks so it's not too odd to have a scene like this from your dining table.
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| From Inca Trail |
The Hiram Bingham is the most expensive train, running at about $700 a trip.
Dogs still roam free around Aguas Calientes but they certainly are of a more friendly and approachable variety. This little fella almost got a one way ticket back to Georgia with us. He snuggled up under my feet at the restaurant and went right to sleep.
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| From Inca Trail |
20. My aunt asked me what was the one thing I was glad I brought on the trek that I would have been absolutely lost without. My answer is the fine specimen below.
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| From Inca Trail |
His excitement, determination, sensitivity, encouragement, patience and love helped me from start to finish. Between alternating switchback patterns to pace, gently reminding me to hydrate and later becoming the pack mule for my water bottle and various other gear, being my lookout when I had to duck into the bushes and rubbing my back on the third day when I got sick every 15 steps he deserves a medal. Never once did he lose his gentle demeanor. If he hadn't been on the trail with me I would have taken up the Quechuan farmer on the second day who offered me a cheat to the top riding his horse. Either that or I'd have been headed back to Ollantaytambo to catch the train to Machu Picchu.
Highlights from Peru (Serina's List 1-10)
Now that our vacation is coming to its close I'll weigh in while my mind is still fresh. I'm sure Chris will touch on his favorite parts of the trip as well. I'm fairly fond of lists (anyone who knows my organizational skills will vouch for that) and I feel it fitting to go with a list of 30 things from the trip as Chris and I both shared that age milestone while hopping over the equator.
I'll start by stating that this trip has stirred a new curiosity in me that I feel will blossom into more trips abroad. I already want to revisit Peru as we were able to only see a slice of what that beautiful country has to offer but know I want to revisit with more purpose and outward facing vision and action.
So without further ado,
Serina's Peruvian List of 30 (in increments of 10)!
1-10 Cusco
I'll start by stating that this trip has stirred a new curiosity in me that I feel will blossom into more trips abroad. I already want to revisit Peru as we were able to only see a slice of what that beautiful country has to offer but know I want to revisit with more purpose and outward facing vision and action.
So without further ado,
Serina's Peruvian List of 30 (in increments of 10)!
1-10 Cusco
- I found that international travel for vacation should be done in as relaxed a manner as humanly possible. Always plan ahead by giving yourself some buffer between your arrival and local activities. Chris and I arrived at Hartsfield-Jackson Airport in Atlanta 3 hours before departure and stood in line behind many folks with varying tales of missing flights days before. Electronic check-in was not an option for us so we had to wait in line at Delta until right up to 1 hour before our flight to check in. Regardless of prep and requesting seats, Chris and I were assigned on two separate rows but luckily with the bargaining chip of both being window seats. An incredibly nice lady passenger in my row, middle seat, gladly swapped Chris for his window. One of the vows I should have added during our wedding was to always relinquish the window seat for my hubby. He's pretty worth it and shares the view with me always. I really don't mind riding in the middle. It's also an opportunity to meet fellow travelers. I've also found that in comparison, U.S. airlines lack tremendously in customer service than international airlines.
- Upon arrival in Lima everyone was most accommodating and polite. Many folks were quick to direct and answer questions and stumble in far better English than my preschool rated Spanish. I've been humbled in my lack of multilingual skills and have found that after two weeks of immersion in Latin-American Spanish speaking Peru it really charged my desire to learn. There's a beauty in learning another language by waking up your brain and offering a respect to native speakers who genuinely appreciate your efforts. The nice barista at the Lima Airport Starbucks (oh yes, our first stop, really roughing it I know!) smiled warmly when I attempted my order of a Vainilla Latte y frio! Coupling that with the worst fumbling of ordering a zucchini quiche for breakfast as my first attempt at conversational Spanish he sweetly converted to English and asked us where we were from and about our trip.
- Arriving in Cusco (Q'osco by the Quechuan name) made our trip real for me. The tiny airstrip taxis you past bleachers of locals watching the planes land and rolls up amidst flanking mountain ranges into an airport that felt like two rooms large. We walked to baggage claim and were pleasantly welcomed with a local group playing melodies woven between the charango (a sort of mandolin), drums and siku (Andean panpipe). Music continues to be a universal language as I felt so comfortable and at ease at the sound of their work. My one regret is that I did not buy their CD as once we notified our hotel transport we had arrived they whisked us off in a taxi where they began their pitch for all the local tours they could sell us. Luckily for us, we had come prepared by booking our Inca Trail trek with Peru Treks beforehand so we were able to make it to our room at Royal Inka I Hotel in record time.
My aunt was not so lucky on her arrival as her transport had her tied up for a couple of hours after she got to her hotel. My suggestion to anyone is make sure to do some research in the areas you are staying and map out what you would like to do and shop around online before making a decision. Travel groups are a dime a dozen when you get to your locale so don't ever feel rushed to solidify your trip unless, like hiking the Inca Trail, you need prior permits that need to be acquired ahead of time.
From Beautiful Q'osco - Q'osco (Quechuan meaning: the navel of the world) is such a vibrant town with incredible history. Walking the various streets, many of which we found out the "hard" way were in the midst of changing between the old Spanish names on our map back to the Quechuan names, we set out each time on some kind of adventure to find a museum or restaurant to patron.Passing by the street markets where locals peddled their wares and the Inca stone foundations of fine craftsmanship erupting into Spanish colonial tops nestled in between large mountains gives you an appreciation for the culture and history.
Cathedrals that seems to scrape the sky loom over the Plaza de Armas where the bustle of commerce and panhandling make steady pace.
From Beautiful Q'osco
There is never a loss of inspiration or saturated colors around the area as many of the doors and window shutters are painted very eye-catching hues of blues and greens.
From Beautiful Q'osco - NEVER underestimate the awesomeness of holding a baby llama for they are soft and snuggly!
Seriously, don't pass up that kind of opportunity! We're contemplating moving to a farmhouse so we can raise llamas. We're sure Bella would enjoy that immensely!
From Beautiful Q'osco - Sending postcards is so much more fun when the postal drop is through the jaws of a bronze mammal.
What was even more surprising is that we made this drop on Christmas Day and the post office was open with employees and all!
From Beautiful Q'osco - There was beauty in ever crack and crevice of Q'osco. We spent many hours traversing up and down the little alleyways into pockets of mini plazas flanked by street vendors and cathedrals. Many times we found restaurants as happy accidents that would be absolutely empty when we arrived and spilling out into the streets by the time we finished. Maybe our schedules for eating were just a bit more of the "early bird" variety. Many times we'd set off to find a restaurant or shop only to find it moved with no forwarding address, then, upon further wandering with no expectations we would happen upon its new whereabouts, often stopping in. The streets were always crazy with taxis and beeping so you would have to keep your wits about you but sometimes you'd wander into an offset square where the sounds died out and the scenery would just happen to give you a priceless shot. We meandered into a square with one museum and two cathedrals and I watched as a family came out of service dressed in their best. Chris marveled at the local birds that would dare come just close enough to taunt you and flit off and puff their feathers while perched on small fences surrounding the gardens. I happened to be snapping shots of the infamous doors and happened to capture this Quechuan woman and her llama pass.
Yet another happy accident! Not only the architecture is breathtaking, but the people. There are no airs about them and no glances into reflections of shop windows to make sure everything is picture perfect. The beauty in them are the weathered cheeks, the traditional garb, the deep lines on their faces that convey the emotion even without the effort of a smile or frown. Many will stop and take a picture for a sol or two often with a sweet cherub at their back.
From Beautiful Q'osco 
From Beautiful Q'osco - If there is one thing that takes to the streets more than tourists, locals and taxis it's the abundance of stray and/or gently loved dogs. It was all Chris and I could do to not pack each one of them up in our luggage and haul them home. My aunt said you really have to look at them differently while you are here or it will break your heart. Many we would see shying away from crowds and people just to come around again to pick through rubbish and discards. Some would wander in packs barking as other passed some would sit near the local police of which made me wonder if they were canine units (which do at least exist in Lima that I saw). Most would stay clear of the streets and stick to the sidewalks. Even the pooches have pedestrian etiquette!
It was interesting to see the combination of breeds as they scooted around town. Many of which were of small dog varieties - mainly what looked to be pekingese. The one above caught my eye in the San Blas (artistic) district as it reminded me of a white version of our pooch.
From Beautiful Q'osco - Our idea of how many can fit in our hotel elevator and the hotel's idea differ. This is Chris and me standing in the teeny box speculated to hold "6 Personas". We found that the 3:1 exchange rate possibly applies to this elevator as well.
From Beautiful Q'osco - Christmas is such an interesting time in Q'osco. On Christmas Eve, the Plaza was filled to the brim with stands and markets for Santuranticuy (The sale of Saints) where many people from the mountains come to sell various materials making up the nativity that are often handmade. It was a bit rainy this day so everyone had covered up their wares sitting out the weather.
By midday the sun was out and deals were being made left and right! Everyone rushes out to purchase the goods to really jazz up their nativities. Figurines and natural materials to construct the mangers are splayed out for potential buyers to ogle and haggle on. By the end of the evening the Plaza has been stripped down as if the festival never happened. Much to our excitement when we made it to the Plaza on Christmas morning we saw people spilling out of the main cathedral. In the midst of the best attire we saw flashes of color and heard groups of young women singing and then all of a sudden the festivities made waves into the street.
From Beautiful Q'osco
No barricades were set up so you'd see all of the traffic some to a screeching halt as the parade of dancers and singers demonstrate on the main thoroughfares. Many of them spill out and break off into subgroups but all of them have a mission in mind. They spread their cheer from street to street, dancing all the way and all making their way to the large nativity (complete with alpacas!) just outside of the Qoricancha (Temple of the Sun).The heart they put into this and the heat they endure while dancing is quite spectacular. It makes you want to get in and dance with them.
From Beautiful Q'osco 
From Beautiful Q'osco
There's no place like home!
We just wanted to drop a line to let everyone know we made it home safely. We're loading up all of our pictures and getting our notes together to really dig into the trip. Excitement to come!
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